A truly Nawabi treat- Makkhan Malai

Makkhan Malai, a rare speciality from Lucknow is sold during the winter. Makkhan Malai is sold by vendors in a round glass-covered carts. This  light-weight, melt in the mouth sweet is surely the lightest Indian dessert. This cardamom flavoured whipped cream, Makhan Malai  aso known as Nimish is sold at Gol Darwaza in Chowk.

Makkhan Malai sold by Ramakant Mishra from the past 10 years at Gol Darwaza in Chowk market is well known. At dawn when the sun is yet to rise he brings 20kg of Nimish to Gol Darwaza in glass containers and about 9 AM he is sold out! “Some days we get as many as a hundred customers, the sale is brisk in the mornings,” he says.

The process of making Makkhan Malai is also very interesting. Well beaten and frothy milk is kept for the whole night in a thaali on a moonlit night so that dew drops fall into it. Next morning there’s dew on it and it is set in the winter frost, the already frothy milk is then further churned. The light butter that comes from churning is used for the dish. The cream is then whipped with saffron, and dry fruits are added. A platter of Makkhan Malai is then covered with silver varaq.

In days of yore, it is said that Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haider, a great connoisseur of Awadhi cuisine announced a competition in which a bawarchi who could balance an asharfi (gold coin) on this cream froth was richly rewarded. This recipe was since perfected byrakabdars and bawarchis of the royal kitchen. But with lack of patronage the art of making makkhan malai will soon be extinct. Ramakant Mishra says that this tradition of making this exotic dessert which he learnt from his father will end with him. “I will not want my children to do this,” he says.

Lightly sweet Nimish is very subtle and delicate so much like the temperament of Lakhnawi Nawabs who patronized it. Nazuk andnafees, there is a hint of saffron and cardamom, with none of the flavours dominating. It melts in your mouth. Only slivers of pistachio in your mouth after a helping are what remain to remind you that you just  tasted a spoonful of bliss. 

This Nawabi delicacy which is available only in winters is yours for Rs 15 only for 50 grams served in a leaf dona.